South face – Via Decima ****
Sonia Della Santa,
Pier Costante Brustolon, 1976
Augusto Bedont, 1977
Sergio Mattei, 1977
• DEVELOPMENT: 380 m
• DIFFICULTY: TD-R2; 4th 5th 1 pass. 5 ° +
• ESTIMATED TIME: 5 hours
normal equipment, bring friends and lanyards for the numerous hourglasses
This beautiful classic itinerary by now very popular is certainly one of the most beautiful climbs in the Dolomites, especially for the difficulties that are never too high and always very homogeneous. The climb overcomes a marked system of gullies and dihedrals with characteristic rock sometimes smoothed by the water, at times very gripping, rough and full of hourglasses. The water that for millennia has come down from the Scalet delle Masnade, sometimes violently and sometimes gently, has carved and shaped the rock, creating a beautiful, truly one-of-a-kind mountaineering route. Avoid the climb after heavy rains and in spring and be careful in the event of violent downpours, as a real waterfall pours onto the route. Also foresee that, given the great attendance of the itinerary, on certain "peak" days the crowding can cause some problems.
From Rif. Carestiato or Malga Framònt, follow the Alta Via path n. 1 until you reach under the Scalet delle Masenade wall near a flat grassy area. Following the obvious track, which goes up a small scree to the right, you reach the attacks of the climbs concerned (0.30 h).
A few tens of meters to the right of the colander line where the wall descends forming a sloping slab.
The descent from the Scalet face does not present particular difficulties. You reach a large grassy ledge placed on the top of the rocky wall and follow it (red marks) towards the west then, near the eastern wall of the Primo Torrione dei Cantòi, the path goes down (one pass. 2 °) reaching the base of the wall (0.40 h).