TORRE JOLANDA (2350 m)

TORRE JOLANDA (2350 m)

South side – Via Super-Soro ****

FIRST CLIMBERS:
Soro Dorotei, 1984,

DEVELOPMENT:
300 m (considering the base wall)

 

• DIFFICULTY: D+ R2; 5°
• ESTIMATED TIME: 3 ore
• EQUIPMENT:
standard equipment

IDEAL PERIOD:
may-october

Very nice and straight itinerary that take place to the right of the via “Topo”, on an articulated and compact rock grey wall. In the last years it has been repeated many times and this made the climb almost completely bolted. The ascent, because of the nice climb and the good exposition, is very advisable. Be careful not to confuse the path with the modern climbs that, especially in the second half, are very close.

ACCESS
From Passo Duràn you follow the path that brings to Rifugio Carestiato, until you get to the motorable road. Few meters further it opens, towards north, a little valley with a clear track (the first part is often swampy). This path leads to Croda Spiza and it goes beyond it getting to a steep gravelly canyon (2° passage) that leads to the base of the rocks (1.10 h).

START POINT
You surpass the base wall (in common with the via “Topo”), then you cross the ledge on the right to a little grey dihedral.

DESCENT
From the top ot the tower you overpass a squeeze chimney getting to the great scree localized behind the top. You go down through it (there is a track) until it is possible to cross and go up again towards south reaching a pass between Torre Jolanda and a secondary forepart. From here, getting down through the clear gully under the wall (2°- passage) you gain the base of the rocks (1h).

PALA DELLE MASENADE (2413 m) – Col. Bonetti

PALA DELLE MASENADE (2413 m) – Col. Bonetti

South side – Colatoio Bonetti **

FIRST CLIMBERS:
Paolo e Flavio Bonetti,
Mario Bottecchia,
Maurizio Poli, 1969

 

FIRST REPETITION:
Renato Bien, Walter Levis,
Augusto Bedont, 1976

 

• DEVELOPMENT: 300 m
• DIFFICULTY: TD R2; 6°
• ESTIMATED TIME: 4 h
• EQUIPMENT:
Some nails and friends. Slings for tunnels

IDEAL PERIOD:
may-october

Logic itinerary that pass the most marked colander of Pala delle Masenade with a straight line path. The rock is very good and very articulated, and secured points are generally numerous. The ascent, that proposes a good and continuous climb, is not to be underestimated, having some passages “to be understood” and some very verticals traits. Furthermore, keep in mind that the ascent stays wet for a long time after rain episodes and in the spring season is soaked by the fusion waters coming from upper ledges. The path is partially fitted and the colander offers good secured points anyway.

ACCESS
From Rifugio Carestiato, following Alta Via n.1 towards Rifugio Vazzolèr, in a few minutes you will get to the long scree that descents under the wall. Hardly following the scree with his clear track you will easily get to the base of Pala delle Masenade. A great landslide fallen off from a forepart in autumn 2010 is ruinously descented on the scree (please ask for information to Rifugio Carestiato about the possibility of this access). Alternately, ascend along Ferrata Costantini crossing with some difficulty at the base of Pala delle Masenade (0:40 h).

START POINT
At the center of the great rocky amphitheatre of Masenade, that shapes a gray dihedral rightwise sloping. Alternately, crossing the lower ledge of Ferrata Costantini it is possible to get to the base of the colander.

DESCENT
From the large detrital upper ledge it is possible to cross towards right getting to Ferrata Costantini, that rapidly brings back to Rifugio Carestiato (1h). Alternately, with a longer path, you can cross on the ledge towards left and go down along comfortable banks on the rocks of Scalet delle Masenade with a red signs highlighted path (2h to Rifugio Carestiato).

SCALET DELLE MASENADE (2300 m)

SCALET DELLE MASENADE (2300 m)

South side – Via Decima ****

FIRST CLIMBERS:
Luigi Decima,
Fausto Todesco,
Sonia Della Santa,
Pier Costante Brustolon, 1976

FIRST REPETITION:
Walter Levis,
Augusto Bedont, 1977

SECOND REPETITION: 
Luigi Decima,
Sergio Mattei, 1977

• DEVELOPMENT: 380 m
• DIFFICULTY:TD- R2; 4° 5° 1 pass. 5°+
• ESTIMATED TIME: 5 h
• EQUIPMENT:
standard equipment, remember to bring friends and slings for numerous tunnels

IDEAL PERIOD:
may-october

This wonderful classic itinerary now very popular is without doubt one of the most beautiful dolomitic climb, especially for the not so hard and homogeneous difficulties. The climb gets over a marked system of colanders and dihedrals with characteristic rock, sometimes smoothed by water, sometimes wrinkled and rich of tunnels. Water flowing for millennia from Scalet delle Masenade, sometimes with violence, sometimes softly, has dug and shaped the rock creating a wonderful unique alpine path. Avoid the climb after heavy rain and be careful in case of violent downpour, inasmuch on the path it pours a real waterfall. Also expect, given the great attendance of the itinerary, that in some days the overcrowding can cause some problems.

ACCESS
From Rifugio Carestiato or from Malga Framont, follow the path of Alta Via n.1 until you get under the wall of Scalet delle Masenade, in proximity of a flat grassy lay-by. Following the highlighted track that goes up towards right, along a little scree, you will arrive to the bouts (0:30).

START POINT
Some tens of meters rightwise of the colander line where the wall descents creating a sloping plate.

DESCENT
The descent of the wall of Scalet is not very difficult. You will reach a grassy ledge on the top of the rocky wall and you follow it (red signs) toward west, then in the proximity of the west part of Primo Torrione dei Cantòi the path goes down (2° passage) getting to the base of the wall (0:40h)

CIMA MOIAZZA SUD (2878 m)

CIMA MOIAZZA SUD (2878 m)

Ferrata Costantini

Dislivello tot. salita: 1470 m
Dislivello ferrata: 1000 m
Difficoltà: III 5
Esposizione: variabile

Tempi:
– climb 7 h
– descent 3,30 h
– total 10,30 h

Support points: Rif. San Sebastiano, Rif. Tomè,
Rif. Carestiato, Biv. Ghedini

PALA DEL BELIA (2295 m)

PALA DEL BELIA (2295 m)

South side – Spigolo Sorarù ***

FIRST CLIMBERS:
Enzo Sorarù,
Michel Amoudruz,
Silvano Peloso, 1957

FIRST REPETITION:
Umberto Benvegnù,
Gianni Costantini, 1965

FIRST SOLITARY:
Luigi Decima, 1977

DEVELOPMENT: 440 m
DIFFICULTY: D+ R2; 4° 5° 1 pass. 5°+
ESTIMATED TIME: 4 h
EQUIPMENT: standard mountaineering equipment

IDEAL PERIOD:
april-november

Wonderful itinerary, almost a classic, that crosses the prominent south spur of Pala del Belìa with an elegant climb on good rock. The ascent proposes very interesting passages, but it is characterized by several grassy ledges that make the climb so discontinuous and can be slippery in case they are wet. So be careful. The climb, being often run, is nicely bolted. For the easy parts, our advice is to bring some pitons anyway. For the variety of the passages and the good exposition to sun this climb is highly recommended, also in unfavourable seasons.

ACCESS
From Rifugio Carestiato, walking the plain path that brings to the start point of Ferrata Costantini, you go to the base of the rocks, following an evident way, ascending an easy grassy slope you rapidly get to the start point of the climbs (0:20 h).

START POINT
Exactly some meters left of south spur.

DESCENT
In order to come back from the top there are two alternatives. The first is to get to Ferrata Costantini crossing the large ledge towards west and go down along the ferrata. The second is to get down towards east going through meadows and rocky slabs, arriving in the couloir between Pala del Belìa and Pala del Bò. Crossing the couloir towards left you will get to the top of Pala del Bò (be careful in case of ice) and, going down through steep screes following a good marked path, you will get back to Rifugio Carestiato (1h)